How to Use Hydrolyzed Keratin for Shiny, Healthy Hair

Hydrolyzed Keratin

Type of ingredient: Hair strengthener.

Main benefits: Reduces breakage, minimizes damage against heat and color, increases elasticity and shine.

Who should use it: In general, most hair types can use hydrolyzed keratin, but curly, kinky, and dry/damaged hair might benefit more from it.

How often can you use it: You should use a hydrolyzed keratin treatment every six to eight weeks.

Works well with: Products that do not contain additional keratin. Your average shampoo and conditioner work well with hydrolyzed keratin.

Don’t use with: Products also containing keratin—there’s a chance for protein overload.

Meet the Expert

• Cybele Fishman MD, is a board-certified dermatologist with Advanced Dermatology, PC in Manhattan.
• Dr. Isfahan Chambers-Harris is a woman of color, mother, medical scientist, and trichology practitioner, committed to educating women on holistic health approaches to natural hair care.

What Is Hydrolyzed Keratin?

Hydrolyzed keratin is essentially a large protein molecule that has gone through a chemical process that is broken down in a way that allows it to penetrate the hair cuticle. "Keratin is a protein that is found in your hair strands. It is responsible for your hair’s strength and integrity. Hydrolyzed keratin is a protein molecule that is broken down into smaller molecules so that it can penetrate the hair strand," says Chambers-Harris. It is sourced from a larger keratin molecule and goes through a process called enzymatic hydrolysis. The keratin is broken down by splitting its bond with the addition of hydrogen and hydroxide (water). At the end of the chemical process, the keratin is reduced into smaller fragments that can be absorbed by the hair, thanks to its lower molecular weight.

Here is a breakdown of the most popularly derived sources of hydrolyzed keratin and its protein alternatives:

• Hydrolyzed Keratin (Wool Protein): Although it is hardly ever referred to as such on products, the majority of hydrolyzed keratin is derived from sheep’s wool. Bottles of liquid hydrolyzed keratin are a transparent amber hue and have a mild odor.
• Hydrolyzed Silk Protein: This sometimes vegetarian-friendly (but not vegan) version of hydrolyzed keratin comes from silk—which is obtained from the natural silk fibers found in silkworm cocoons. Bottles of liquid hydrolyzed silk protein are also a transparent amber shade and just have a faint odor.
• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: The vegan-approved version of hydrolyzed keratin doesn’t have any actual keratin in it at all, since it is derived from a non-animal byproduct (most often from soft wheat). Bottles of hydrolyzed wheat protein are a solid amber color and have a mild odor.

Hair Type Considerations

Hydrolyzed keratin is beneficial for most hair types, but will have more benefits for people with curly, kinky, dry, or damaged hair. "High porosity hair types that have been weakened from chemical processes like color treatments, chemical relaxers, or sun damage benefit from keratin treatments," says Chambers-Harris. "The hydrolyzed keratin will fill the gaps in the hair strands that are weak." However, it’s a powerful ingredient, so it shouldn’t be applied as a treatment as often as you would apply a moisturizing deep conditioner.

The protein aficionados at professional haircare brand ApHogee say most hair can endure a treatment approximately every six weeks. Depending on a person’s hair condition, some may be able to get away with four or five weeks, while others may need to spread out their treatments up to three months. Generally, damaged or high porosity hair will need more frequent treatments, while low porosity hair can have fewer.

Being excessive with protein can cause more harm than good and deliver the very opposite results of what you want. Hair that is overloaded with protein will usually feel brittle and snap when stretched because it was strengthened too much—kind of like what happens to dry pasta before it is softened with hot water. Similarly, to reverse protein overload, you’ll need to bring moisture back to hair (minus the boiling temperatures, though).

Another way to minimize this result will have to involve reading product labels. Since hydrolyzed keratin and other proteins are used in so many products, it can be easy to have a buildup of said ingredients in your hair already. Paying attention and knowing what your hair can handle is the best way to prevent the overuse of protein.

One thing not to confuse: Hydrolyzed keratin does not have straightening properties like Brazilian keratin treatments, since it is meant to build up bonds rather than break them.

Cost of Hydrolyzed Protein

Generally, hydrolyzed keratin is an affordable purchase, whether it is bought as a solo ingredient or as a product within hair care. Beauty enthusiasts who enjoy putting together DIY treatments can get liquid hydrolyzed keratin for a few dollars. However, this price can scale up drastically, depending on how many ounces are needed. For example, Making Cosmetics offers a 2-ounce bottle of hydrolyzed keratin for $9, while a whole gallon costs $209. Hydrolyzed silk protein is more expensive, while hydrolyzed wheat protein is the least expensive out of all the options.

Folks who prioritize convenience over all else can get their hydrolyzed keratin fix with common hair care products that are available in drugstores, beauty supply stores, or department stores. These products can range from shampoo and conditioners to masks, serums, and sprays. Price and quality are variable, depending on whether a person is going for a value or prestige brand—it’s all dependent on preference. Products that contain hydrolyzed keratin can be less than $10 or upward of $50.

How to Use Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair

Hydrolyzed keratin is typically found in store-bought protein treatments, or if you're feeling like you're ready for a bit of DIY action, you can also whip up a treatment yourself. Fair warning though, the DIY route can be a tad complicated but you can also control what type of product you want to add your hydrolyzed keratin to.

• Use a store-bought option: Store-bought hydrolyzed keratin and protein treatments are the more convenient way to go. They usually have moisturizing ingredients blended into the formulation, so the treatment can be applied to hair in a straightforward process. Follow the instructions printed on the packaging or label carefully so hair will not be over-processed. Some treatments may require a processing cap or hooded dryer, so make sure you have all the items you will need for your treatment. Do not exceed the recommended measurements or time duration.
• Create your DIY treatment: If you want to use hydrolyzed keratin in a DIY treatment, you'll need to follow these steps:

Ingredients:

• Your choice of hydrolyzed keratin
• A baking scale
• A shampoo, conditioner, or deep moisturizing treatment
• Funnel

Directions:

1. Determine whether you will be using hydrolyzed keratin or one of its protein alternatives if you’re vegetarian, vegan, or environmentally conscious.
2. Determine which type of hair product you will be adding protein to—this can include shampoo, conditioner, a deep moisturizing treatment, or all of the above.
3. Once your chosen hair product is determined, measure the amount of product you will be using, and calculate the amount of protein you will need to add, based on the recommended concentration. For example, 8.5 ounces of conditioner would require approximately 0.09 to 0.43 ounces of hydrolyzed keratin. Using hydrolyzed silk protein would require 0.04 to 0.85 ounces, while hydrolyzed wheat protein would require 0.04 to 0.43 ounces.
4. Once your portion sizes are established and measured out with the proper tools, you can pour them into the container you desire and mix until the contents are blended.
5. Apply the mixture to your strands evenly, but try to avoid the scalp as much as possible to minimize the possibility of clogged pores. If you’re using the protein as a deep conditioner, a processing cap and heat may be used for up to 30 minutes for enhanced results. Hair should then be rinsed thoroughly, moisturized, and styled. Protein that is added to shampoo or conditioner can be used as normal.

The Best Products With Hydrolyzed Keratin

An intensive weekly treatment designed to restore hydration and strengthen hair’s resilience, Briogeo’s Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask is fortified with hydrolyzed keratin, rosehip and almond oils, algae extract, and vitamin B.

The OGX Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy Conditioner is a sulfate-free conditioner that gently cleanses and moisturizes hair with hydrolyzed keratin, Brazilian cocoa nut oil and seed butter, aloe leaf juice, coconut oil, and avocado oil.

Alterna Haircare Caviar Anti-Aging Restructuring Bond Repair Leave-In Protein Cream is a leave-in conditioner that treats coarse and porous hair types, as well as general damage, with hydrolyzed keratin, peptides, algae extract, caviar extract, and bond enhancing technology.

A nourishing quick-fix styling hairspray, It’s a 10 Miracle Leave-In Plus Keratin is designed to help maintain straightening treatments by replacing lost protein with hydrolyzed keratin, silk, and keratin amino acids, as well as sunflower seed extract and aloe leaf juice.

Verb Volume Duo Kit is a two-part system of “hydrolyzed vegetable keratin protein” shampoo and conditioner that strengthens and volumizes hair while also minimizing dryness with vitamin B5, rosemary leaf extract, and camellia leaf extract.

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