True acne scars as in indentations in the skin like ice-pick scars can be erased only by professional procedures like microneedling or lasers. Fortunately, what most of us refer to as scars, according to Julia Tzu, founder and medical director of Wall Street Dermatology, are actually marks caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (brown spots) or post-inflammatory erythema (red spots) that will fade over several months or years. Also fortunately, there are products that can speed up the process.
We spoke with Tzu, Avram, and seven more dermatologists to get their recommendations for treating, preventing, and camouflaging acne marks.
Best overall product for acne scars
Since UV rays and visible light from the sun can further darken acne marks, all the dermatologists agree that it's essential to wear sunscreen daily. Sun protection can make a big difference in whether or not these marks remain permanent, says Arielle Nagler, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Medical Center. She'll often recommend that patients wait and see what their scars look like after a year of careful sun protection before opting for an expensive or invasive procedure.
A top pick among dermatologists for facial sunscreens, this EltaMD sun blocker is also recommended for fading acne marks. Dermatologist Natalie Moulton-Levy likes that it contains lactic acid, an ingredient which causes a reduction in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, while Debra Jaliman, an assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai's Icahn School of Medicine, says it's rich in niacinamide, another ingredient that works to fade dark spots. Dr. Dendy Engelman of the Shafer Clinic, is a fan of this product because, along with lactic acid, it has zinc oxide to protect from [UVA/UVB] rays and antioxidants to repair damage.
Another derm-approved sunscreen is this mineral option from La Roche-Posay, recommended by Dr. Michele Farber of Schweiger Dermatology. It's one of my favorites because it goes on smoothly and has broad coverage as well as antioxidants as an extra layer of UV protection, she says.
Founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology, Dr. Corey L. Hartman, recommends this sunscreen from ISDIN, a lightweight mineral option that doesn't leave a white cast on dark skin tones.
Best hydroquinone products for acne scars
According to several of the derms we spoke with, skin-lightening agent hydroquinone is one of the most effective ingredients for fading acne scars. Naissan Wesley, a dermatologist at Skin Care and Laser Physicians of Beverly Hills, explains that hydroquinone can help acne marks fade faster by inhibiting the melanocytes [pigment-producing cells in the skin] from making more pigment.
Ambi Fade Cream includes 2 percent hydroquinone, the highest concentration allowed without a prescription. It also contains soy, which is well known for treating pigmentation issues, and vitamin E, which helps with scarring, says Tzu. While the FDA considers hydroquinone safe, it is banned in Europe and can potentially cause irritation or further discoloration, so remember to patch test and ask a dermatologist whether it's right for you.
Best hydroquinone-free products for acne scars
If you'd rather not use hydroquinone, there are other options for treating acne scars. One of these is azelaic acid, which Farber says works by inhibiting the formation of an enzyme called tyrosinase, which in turn stops the mechanism that produces skin-darkening melanin. Moulton-Levy recommends this affordable and effective azelaic acid treatment from the Ordinary.
Like the Murad serum, this treatment combines vitamin C with glycolic acid (and lactic acid, another exfoliant) to fade marks but without the hydroquinone. Nagler recommends vitamin C because it's an adjunct in preventing free-radical damage, which helps with pigmentation, and he says the most effective formulas like this one are often more expensive because vitamin C is a difficult ingredient to stabilize.
Farber also likes vitamin C, which she says prevents free radical damage while also helping to reduce pigment changes. She, like the Cut's beauty director Kathleen Hou and styling and grooming editor Barret Wertz (and every other beauty editor we know), is a fan of C E Ferulic, which offers a high, stable concentration of a notoriously unstable ingredient (hence, the price). It also has other ingredients that make it great, like vitamin E and ferulic acid, which increases its potency.
Chang also recommends this serum from Murad that is formulated with vitamin C, centella asiatica (good for inflammation), and salicylic acid, which works to diminish the look of scars. Aesthetician Candace Marino likes this serum from iS Clinical that uses a blend of natural ingredients like vitamin C, copper- tripeptide growth factor, centella asiatica, and zinc sulfate to help protect skin from UV damage. It also helps to heal skin, with Marino adding that it's incredibly effective at healing stretch marks. On the cheaper end, Moulton- Levy says this strong glycolic-acid toner is another nice option for fading acne marks.
Best cleanser for acne scars
In addition to sun protection and targeted treatments, the right cleanser can help minimize acne marks. A favorite of both Moulton-Levy and Chang, this cleanser encourages cell turnover without drying out the skin. Chang says it contains glycolic acid to wash away dead skin cells on the top layer of the skin, leaving a very clean feel and improving acne blemishing.
Although this AHA/BHA cleanser helps to brighten and even skin tone generally, Tsu says this formula can help with acne scarring, too. The alpha and beta hydroxy acids chemically exfoliate the skin, which helps to remove dead skin cells, while the licorice helps to reduce the hyperpigmentation caused by acne scars.
Tsu also likes this cleanser from Glytone, which she says helps to brighten and even out skin discoloration. The superstar ingredient in this formula is glycolic acid, which helps to speed up cell turnover and resurface the skin (thus, helping fade dark marks faster). It's also oil-free, ideal for anyone with oily, combination, or even normal skin.
Best products for preventing acne scars
When it comes to acne scars the especially difficult-to-treat indented or raised ones the best offense is a good defense. If you're still struggling with active acne and want to avoid future scarring, Avram likes this drugstore staple Neutrogena cleanser because it contains salicylic acid, which exfoliates the skin, softens the appearance of the acne itself, and has some antibacterial properties. Chang agrees that the cleanser can help unclog pores, treat comedones [whiteheads] and blackheads, and prevent active acne.
Hartman likes this cleanser from SkinCeuticals that deeply cleans the pores using capryloyl salicylic acid, a lipohydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin and decongests skin. It also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, which help to prevent new acne from cropping up. It helps to even the skin tone while cleansing the skin without overdrying, he says.
If you're looking to treat both your current pimples and existing scars, these exfoliating pads, recommended by Chang, contain ingredients that help with both. Salicylic acid increases skin-cell turnover and de-clogs pores to reduce blackheads, she says. Glycolic acid chemically exfoliates the skin to even skin tone and decrease blemishing. Often seen in acne treatments, salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that prevents and treats acne, which ultimately means fewer marks and scars.
A prescription-strength retinoid that became available over the counter a few years back, Differin affects cell turnover faster than OTC retinol to prevent the formation of new acne but is still, according to Engelman, gentler compared to other retinoids. Avram recommends it for those dealing with a lot of small pimples and only the occasional monster cyst. Because Nagler says retinoids encourage collagen remodeling, a well-tolerated formula like Differin can reduce the appearance of deeper scars. Moulton-Levy likes it as well for lightening existing marks. Chang is also a fan: This is an amazing multifunctional product for acne and acne blemishing, she says.
Hartman likes this adapalene gel from La Roche-Posay that works similarly to Differin and, in addition to helping with scarring, also helps to prevent new acne from forming. For a good over-the-counter retinol, Farber recommends SkinBetter AlphaRet, which she says is wonderful, because it tends to be well- tolerated by more sensitive skin types. She also likes that it contains AHAs, another pigment- reducing ingredient, for extra exfoliation. Marino likes this retinol option because it helps with texture and scarring simultaneously. It's also formulated in a peptide base, which Marino says helps to strengthen the skin while also aiding collagen production.