If thereâ€™s one thing that unites humanity, itâ€™s that we all want great hair, but Iâ€™ll be the first to admit, achieving it is a struggle. When good hair days feel few and far between, itâ€™s easy to settle for just okay. Well, fellow men, we donâ€™t have to.
The goal of most men is to spend as little time in the bathroom as possible. Thatâ€™s why we tend to cut our hair shorter. Less hair means less maintenance, right? But, the pitfall of this thinking is that the tenants of good hair apply no matter how long your hair is, what texture it is, or how much you have. Attaining great hair doesnâ€™t take a lot of effort, either, as long as you know what to do. Here are the best tips for all men to achieve their best hair possible, straight from the experts.
Don't Wash Your Hair Every Day
You might think youâ€™re getting extra clean by washing your hair every day, but you could actually be doing more harm than good. â€œIf youâ€™re over-shampooing, youâ€™re stripping away oils from your scalp,â€ says Jen Bennett, barber and manager of education at Rudyâ€™s Barbershop. â€œThose natural oils are the best thing to hydrate your scalp.â€ Even someone with a short buzz-cut shouldnâ€™t shampoo every day, but itâ€™s especially important the longer your hair is. Three to four times a week is best for most guys.
The Kind of Shampoo You Use Matters
Washing your hair with cheap shampoo is like washing your car with hand soap. Shampoos formulated with lots of harsh ingredients, usually found in cheaper products, can strip away too many of those natural oils that protect and hydrate your hair. When it's time to wash your hair, use a gentle formula that is sulfate-free and has natural ingredients, instead (like Aveeno's Pure Renewal Shampoo).
Know Your Hair Type
Knowing what hair type you haveâ€”straight, thin, curly, dryâ€”and buying a shampoo designed for it can make a huge difference. Itâ€™s not just marketing; these shampoos contain specific ingredients that certain hair types benefit from. For instance, â€œcurly hair needs something with more moisturizing ingredients,â€ says Bennett, whereas formulas for thin hair contain ingredients to help volumize.
Always Condition After You Shampoo (And Even When You Don't)
We all want to save time in the shower, but washing your hair without conditioning afterward can cause serious damage. Conditioners replenish moisture and essential oils that even sulfate-free shampoos may get rid of. If you have short buzzed hair, you should always use conditioner after shampooing to keep hair healthy, but itâ€™s especially important for longer hair, says Bennett, even on days when youâ€™re not washing your hair. â€œFor anything longer than three inches, you should condition your hair every day, whether you shampoo or not,â€ she says.
The Longer The Hair, The More Conditioner You Need
Short hair doesnâ€™t require much conditioner, but according to Bennett, the longer the hair, the more conditioner you need. Donâ€™t focus as much on the roots; make sure youâ€™re lathering the full length of your hair conditioner and focusing on the ends, which tend to get dry more easily.
Don't Use Two-in-One Products
It might be tempting to use multi-use products to save time, which is how we can explain the popularity of two-in-one shampoo/conditioners, but theyâ€™re actually not good for your hair. â€œShampoo is meant to cleanse, and conditioner is meant to moisturize, so two-in-one products are counterproductive because youâ€™re really only getting the benefit of one,â€ says Bennett. â€œTheyâ€™re harder on the hair and lean more towards the cleansing side, without giving you enough hydration.â€
Hydration is The Key For Textured Hair
â€œThe coarser and curlier the hair texture, the more moisture it needs,â€ says Bennett. Using a co-wash, which is a gentle cleansing conditioner, in place of shampoo will help retain even more moisture. Following with a leave-in conditioner will ensure that coarse and curly hair stays hydrated and healthy. Itâ€™s especially necessary for African-American hair, says Bennett, â€œwhich needs to be hydrating with oils and deep conditioners more oftenâ€ to keep it from drying out.
Use Oils for Extra Moisture
Using a lightweight hair oil after the shower will help seal in moisture and is especially important for curly, coarse, and textured hair. Bennett recommends argan oil and sweet almond oil, which are lightweight, wonâ€™t make hair look greasy, and also wonâ€™t build up on the scalp.
Be Gentle When Towel Drying Your Hair
Aggressively drying your hair with a towel can do more damage than good, says celebrity hairstylist Patrick Kyle, especially if you already have voluminous hair. â€œYou should blot it with the towel, donâ€™t rub it,â€ he says. Being too rough can make curly or wavy hair frizzy and decrease volume on all hair types, especially thinning hair.
Massage Your Scalp When You Shampoo
No matter what type of hair you have, taking care of your scalp can make all the difference in the health of your hair (and may help keep it around, if thinning is a concern). The first step is to give yourself a scalp massage whenever you shampoo. â€œGet in there with your fingers and nails to gently exfoliate your scalp,â€ says Kyle. â€œIt will help get rid of dead skin cells and buildup at the roots, plus it always feels good.â€
Use a Scalp Scrub Regularly
â€œScalp scrubs activate hair follicle growth and deep clean,â€ says Bennett, who recommends using a scrub with tea tree oil once a week if you use a lot of products. For everyone else, every few weeks is enough. â€œItâ€™s just like exfoliating your face,â€ she says, which will help prime your scalp for optimal hair health.
Use Sunscreen on Your Scalp
If you have thinning hair or bald spots, protecting your scalp is key. According to Bennett, that means wearing sunscreen on any exposed parts when youâ€™re outside. She recommends spray sunscreens, since lotions â€œcan get greasy and clog the follicles.â€ Even with a spray, you should shampoo after you come back inside to minimize buildup.
Get a Haircut Every 4-6 Weeks
Regular haircuts are about more than just keeping the shape of your hair in check. Theyâ€™re also about keeping the rest of your head tidy. â€œYouâ€™ve got neck hair growing out, you need to trim your eyebrows, and thereâ€™s ear hair,â€ says Mr. Natty of Tuft NYC. A clean neck is what makes a haircut look fresh, even if you have long hair.
Instead of trying to describe what haircut you want to your barber, bring pictures. â€œPictures help a ton,â€ says Bennett, â€œand be able to point out what you like and donâ€™t like about it.â€ Showing your barber a picture or two of the kind of haircut you want will ensure they understand exactly what you're going for. This will help eliminate the risk of something getting lost in translation and ending up with a result youâ€™re not happy with. Your barber will also be able to tell you if that particular style will work for you. â€œThe only time your barber will tell you they canâ€™t do something is if your hair physically canâ€™t do it,â€ says Kyle.
Don't Try to Use Barber Terms
Trying to speak your barberâ€™s language can lead to disaster, yet another reason to rely on visuals instead of words. â€œClients who try to use barbering terms rarely know what they actually mean,â€ says Bennett. â€œThe most commonly misused term is fade.â€ A true fade is a skin fade, which means the hair is shaved to the skin around the ears then tapered up to the crown. â€œWhat they really mean is they want their haircut blended, and they still want half an inch on the sides.â€ It might sound cool when you hear your barber say those words, but you should just whip out your phone and show them an inspiration photo instead.
Don't Cheap Out
â€œThe biggest mistake people make is getting a cheap haircut and thinking no one will know,â€ says Mr. Natty. â€œItâ€™s like buying a nice watch. Do you want a Casio or a Rolex?â€ You donâ€™t need to break the bank, but a haircut is not the place to pinch pennies. Find a barbershop or salon where you feel comfortable paying their prices, and you vibe with their work. You might not think anyone can tell the difference, but they can.
Texture Makes a Haircut Last Longer
One of the biggest differences between a cheap haircut and a more refined one is texture. Adding texture to a haircut will not only be easier to style, but it will look better as it grows out. â€œTexture actually makes a haircut last longer,â€ says Mr. Natty. â€œIf you cut a straight line into hair, it grows out very quickly and looks sloppy.â€
Don't Fight The Cowlick
Cowlicks, parts of our hair that grow in a different direction from the rest, are a reality of life, especially for men who have shorter hair. They resist laying flat like the rest of our hair and can be frustrating to style. Instead of fighting a cowlick, Bennett recommends working with it. â€œItâ€™s about finding the right kind of blend for the haircut,â€ she says. â€œYou can either cut it really short, so itâ€™s not able to stand up, or it needs to be long enough to lay down (at least two inches).â€ A seasoned barber will be able to know which of these options is best for the haircut you want and advise you on how to style it.
There's a Difference Between a Haircut and a Hair Style
Lots of guys donâ€™t realize the work that goes into some haircuts (more on that later), so when youâ€™re showing your barber what kind of look you want, listen to what they tell you about styling. If youâ€™re not willing to put in the time, itâ€™s not the right haircut for you. â€œIf somebody shows me a photo of something highly styled like a pompadour, but they tell me they donâ€™t want to spend any time on their hair, Iâ€™m not giving them that haircut,â€ says Bennett. Think realistically about how much time youâ€™re willing to put into styling your hair and if you know itâ€™s not a priority for you, go for something short and easy to maintain.
Be Patient When Growing Out Your Hair
Longer hair is trending right now, and more men are embracing it. But going from a high-and-tight fade to surfer waves takes time and patience. â€œHair grows about a half inch per month on average, so you should let your hair grow for about three months before you trim it,â€ says Kyle. â€œYou need to have something to work with.â€ Once it starts to get long, ask your barber for a shape-up, not a cut. â€œIt wonâ€™t look as disheveled and sloppy and will create the shape you want it to grow into,â€ he says. The key is patience.
Use a Hair Brush With Natural Bristles
Brushing your hair every day with a well-designed hairbrush can help evenly distribute the natural oils along the length of the hair shafts, which helps to preserve moisture and makes your hair look healthy. â€œIt also stimulates the scalp,â€ says Mr. Natty, who recommends a brush with natural bristles, not plastic, on dry or wet hair.
Shape Your Hair Into Place While It's Still Damp
After the shower, while your hair is still wet, â€œshape your hair into place using your fingers or a comb, even if youâ€™re not styling it right then,â€ says Bennett. As it starts to dry, the shape will begin to get locked in, which will help make it easier to style once you put in the product. And remember, â€œif you put on a hat while your hair is wet, it will dry flat to your head,â€ she says.
Put in Products When Your Hair is Wet, But Not Too Wet
â€œMost products are water-soluble now,â€ says Bennett, â€œwhich will dilute if the hair's really wet, but is harder to use if the hair is too dry.â€ She recommends towel drying or using a blow dryer for â€œabout 30 seconds, till your hair is about 60-70% dry,â€ before putting in any product.
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