Sleek as an iPhone and controlled by an app with 10 different facial-toning settings, the Ziip is just one of a fast-expanding range of high-tech skin- care tools made for at-home use. Microcurrentâ€™s not your thing? Fend off acne and inflammation with an LED mask by Dr. Dennis Gross, which purports to calm, clear, and de-wrinkle skin while making you look like a demon in a horror flick (according to my boyfriend). Maybe youâ€™re not into light therapy. In that case, try the Magic Glow Wand, a massager created by bicoastal facialist Joanna Vargas, which features hot and cold settings meant to approximate the steam and cryotherapy included in her signature treatments. There are also collagen- boosting microneedlers (more prickly than painful, and not to be overused); buffing/polishing microdermabraders (ditto); and skin-tightening at-home multipolar radio frequency devices (what?!).
â€œI think people are a little overwhelmed,â€ acknowledges New York dermatologist Ellen Marmur, M.D., who created her light-emitting MMSphere 2.0â€”which offers four different colors of glow, each with its own alleged benefitâ€”to help her patients maintain their in-office results between appointments. â€œThereâ€™s such a variety of devices coming to market nowâ€”you can wind up choosing blindly if you donâ€™t understand the technology,â€ says Marmur, alluding to the spiking interest in these skin-care gadgets, which locked-down consumers have flocked to with gusto. (Sales at the multi-brand skin-tech e-tailer CurrentBody were up more than 180 percent in the past year alone.) Marmur goes on to give me a much- needed primer in LED light therapy, which operates at a cellular level, and elicits different reactions depending on color: The antibacterial blue light in the MMSphere is used for treating acne, for example, while red light may help build collagen for a smoother, plumper appearance. Microcurrent, meanwhile, trains your facial muscles â€œthe same way you work out the muscles in your body at the gym,â€ adds Tera Peterson, who launched NuFaceâ€”the first at-home microcurrent apparatusâ€”with her mother, former Golden Door esthetician Carol Cole, in 2005. â€œIf youâ€™re starting to see sagging around the jawline, thatâ€™s when you want to use it.â€
My first exposure to these technologies was a decade ago, when I capped off a Joanna Vargas facial with a trip to her newly installed Revitalight bed. Vargas informed me at the time that repetition is the key to LED light therapyâ€™s effectiveness, whether the aim is shrinking pores or promoting collagen production; back then, I couldnâ€™t afford the recommended 12-session package, and even now, I find the $150-per-session expense hard to justify. â€œThatâ€™s the real promise of these at-home toolsâ€”theyâ€™re a convenient, cost-effective way to create consistency,â€ Vargas told me when I returned to her Fifth Avenue salon for a tune-up this summer via the Triple Crown Facial. Vargas administered several modalities with a loving hand as huge radio frequency and microcurrent machines whirred in the background, and mechanical compression stockings sucked on my legs to stimulate lymphatic drainage. There was no way I could reproduce this experience in my living room, but after a 20-minute rest in the LED bed â€”meditative, if a bit claustrophobicâ€”and another five minutes analyzing my noticeably toned and all-around radiant face in the bathroom mirror, I was determined to try: Iâ€™d make a religion of using Vargasâ€™s Magic Glow Wand and any other devices I could get my hands on, I swore, if it meant I could look this good every day.
Aesthetics aside, thereâ€™s an indulgence factor in having someone tenderly care for your face that no at-home device can ever replicate
The easiest treatment to fit into my skin-care-slacker lifestyle, I reasoned, was LED: I liked the idea that I could possibly improve circulation and reduce inflammation by passively bathing in the MMSphereâ€™s glow, or by popping on CurrentBodyâ€™s flexible mask (less â€œhorror-yâ€ than Dr. Grossâ€™s, per my boyfriend). Other devices were more labor-intensive. Although I was assured by Simon that, once I got the hang of my favorite Ziip treatments, I could do them while I watched TV, I never progressed past needing the online video tutorials as a guide. New York facialist Georgia Louiseâ€™s celeb-approved microneedling device, the Hollywood EGF, required a similar choreography of circumnavigating my face and neck with gadget in hand, but rather than forcing muscles to contract, as microcurrent does, the needles cause minor trauma to the skinâ€” allegedly boosting collagen production as a healing response. I was relieved to find that the EGF needles were shorter and much less painful than those once jabbed into my face by an esthetician (getting professionally microneedled was one of the most agonizing experiences of my life). But the fact that they merely tingled my skin made me wonder if the practice was actually doing any good.
â€œA true microneedling device has to penetrate at a 90-degree angle, and go in deep enough to penetrate the collagen,â€ notes Evan Rieder, M.D., a dermatologist and psychiatrist practicing in New York City. â€œIt has to draw blood.â€ Rieder is suspicious of the science behind the new wave of at-home devicesâ€”indeed, he doesnâ€™t believe itâ€™s science at all, because thereâ€™s not yet data to back up most of the claims. â€œThe evidence is all anecdotal,â€ he says. â€œThereâ€™s a huge difference between the devices being sold for personal use and what youâ€™d find at a doctorâ€™s office. If theyâ€™re safe to use at home, that probably means theyâ€™re not that powerful.â€ The best you can hope for, Rieder continues, is maintenance of the skin between professional treatmentsâ€”and thatâ€™s if youâ€™re diligent and consistent over a long period of time. A product like the $149 SolaWave Wand, which fits both microcurrent and LED technology into a gizmo the scale and shape of a disposable razor, claims to do just that. â€œMaybe you go a little longer between sessions,â€ says Miami- and New York Cityâ€“based esthetician Shamara Bondaroff, a fan of the device and a microcurrent true believer. â€œPost- lockdown, Iâ€™ve got a lot of clients coming in with these at-home tools and asking me to show them what to do. And you can learn my method,â€ says Bondaroff, â€œalthough, you know, itâ€™s nice to lie down and have somebody do it for you.â€
And thatâ€™s the thing: Aesthetics aside, thereâ€™s an indulgence factor in having someone tenderly care for your face that no at-home device can ever replicate. Even when it was easy and pleasurable, I never got the same dopamine rush from my self-care that I did from having Bondaroff feather a microcurrent wand around my forehead, as though dusting away my fine lines. And there were times when ministering to my skin felt like a chore, more beauty labor forced on me by a society that wonâ€™t let women age. Every so often, however, Iâ€™d catch a glimpse of my reflection and think, Yes, maybe I do look more J.Loâ€“esqueâ€”at which point, Iâ€™d return to my gadgets with a renewed sense of purpose.
The device I have returned to the most is the Lyma Laser, which uses painless â€œcold laserâ€ technology developed as a remedy for decaying tendons and cartilage to theoretically rebuild slack and dull skin. Touted as a miracle worker by fans in its native Britain, it is currently being reviewed for regulatory approval Stateside. I quickly mastered the companyâ€™s suggested sequence of massaging strokes, and thus could absentmindedly laser myself while enjoying The White Lotus. Butâ€”and apropos Dr. Rieder, this is entirely anecdotalâ€”my consistency with the Lyma was prompted by seeing results. â€œI try everything and I am so, so skeptical, but honest to God, the Lyma has changed my face,â€ says Romy Soleimani, a makeup artist whose clients include Cara Delevingne and Alicia Keys. â€œAnd itâ€™s not just me seeing itâ€”Iâ€™m getting compliments from friends, and even my husband was like, â€˜Did you do something?â€™ â€
Celebrity esthetician Joanna Czech is another Lyma acolyte, and has signed on as the brandâ€™s U.S. ambassador. â€œBecause theyâ€™ve eliminated the heat, it works on skin in all conditions,â€ she says, which could be especially good news for her darker-complected clients, as ablative lasers can be harmful when used on melanated skin. According to Czech, the Lyma diminished both her rosacea and the hyperpigmentation she normally observes after summer sun exposure, and sheâ€™s seen other benefits as well. â€œIt reduces inflammation, and when you do that, you reduce the signs of aging,â€ she says.
So is the Lyma Laser the silver bullet weâ€™ve all been waiting for? With its $2,499 price tag, it probably should be.
â€œYou still need microcurrentâ€”you donâ€™t do laser instead of your workout,â€ Czech points out. â€œAnd you still need good habits. But, you know, youâ€™ve got to be reasonable,â€ she adds. No device can turn back the clock. â€œI donâ€™t think weâ€™ll ever get to a point where thereâ€™s one thing that gets rid of deep lines. Maybe, if you improve elasticity, you lose the fine lines around the eyes. And shouldnâ€™t that be enough?â€
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