Bratz Dolls, Saint Laurent Sunrises and Telfars Xmas Party: Whats in Fashion?

Curated by Claudia Shannon / Research Scientist / ishonest

Your one-stop-shop for this week’s fashion news to know.

Advent is upon us, my dears! Yes, another whizz around the sun has gone by in a blink, and we’re counting down the days to the holidays once again. Accordingly, this week’s round-up is fittingly festive, brimming over with treats like a snowy Coach campaign, a link-up for the chicest Christmas party of the year, and even extra-glam Bratz dolls! This week, it’s also all about knitting – though not the cosy winter basics you’re thinking of. Whether it’s sumptuous cashmeres from Pellat-Finet, sensuous, body-sculpted pieces by Krystal Paniagua, or demi- couture partywear from Emma Gudmundson, we’re filling you in on all the new yarn wizards to know about… and much more, of course! Here’s what’s in fashion.

Saying goodbye to Virgil Abloh

This week, the world came to grips with the heartbreaking loss of Virgil Abloh. To say that the Chicago-based designer was one of the foremost visionaries of his generation would be an understatement — and tributes from icons and next- gen kids alike have made it clear just how beloved and game-changing he had been throughout his polymathic career. Before he died, Virgil had planned to stage a Louis Vuitton show in Miami. Described as a ‘spin-off’ show, it featured the designer’s SS22 collection with a handful of additional looks created especially for the show. Initially intended as a client-facing event to coincide with Art Basel Miami, the news of Virgil’s sudden passing shifted the intention of the event. Upon his wishes, the show went ahead, with his community of friends, collaborators and colleagues coming together in the Maritime Marina to pay tribute to the life and legacy of one of fashion’s contemporary greats. Here’s everything you need to know. OA

British Fashion’s big night out came BACK with a bang

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While we had to make do without them last year, Monday night saw The Fashion Awards come home to the Royal Albert Hall!! As London’s ritziest winter soirée, it brought out the usual bevvy of A-listers – think Dua Lipa, Kylie Minogue and Kris Jenner – most of whom took to the red carpet decked out in the unofficial patron designer of the evening, Richard Quinn. As was only fitting, the main event was led by touching tributes to the life and legacy of Virgil Abloh from collaborators and close friends, including Idris Elba and Kim Jones. And the winners of the night, you ask? Well, that would be giving it all away! Ok, what we will say is that Alessandro Michele, Nensi Dojaka and Tommy Hilfiger were among those who left the night particular proud, but head here to read our full recap of British fashion’s biggest night of the year… oh, and here to go backstage with everyone’s favourite lockdown comedienne, Elsa Majimbo! MS

Coach Ski goes 80s for their new collection

Telfar and PDA are hosting the only Crimbo party to be at

GCDS are going to make you buy Bratz dolls again

See the sun rise on the sea, courtesy of Saint Laurent

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Cast your mind back to the depths of Lockdown 1.0 last year. The existential angst of perpetual bad news left many of us feeling creatively drained, especially with galleries and museums closed and artists isolated from their studios. The NYC-based Japanese artist Sho Shibuya, however, managed to turn the bad news into art. He used the front page of The New York Times, often with headlines of rising deaths and global crisis, as his canvas for richly gradated paintings of daily sunrises. He renders each one in a day, layering the colors on and on till he’s satisfied that they reflect the beauty of the morning sky. The series, titled Sunrise from a Small Window, came with a message of hope and optimism at a time of darkness and uncertainty, serving as a reminder that tomorrow is another day.

Krystal Paniagua offers quietly sensual knits for SS22

When Krystal Paniagua graduated from the Royal College of Art back in 2019, she dazzled us with her high-technicality knits that paid homage to the raw beauty of her home island of Puerto Rico. Highlights of her debut included beach-ready knit ensembles were printed with images of mossy concrete and flaking paint, punched through with frayed-edge cutouts. Just over two years on from then, she’s releasing her SS22 collection, her second since leaving the prestigious London school. Presented in a lookbook shot against the backdrop of New York City by Hedi Stanton, it’s comparatively discreet in its aesthetic texture, though no less telling of Krystal’s honed making techniques. The collection’s baseline is sensually sporty – a mood that translates most directly to ribbed halterneck tops with adjustable straps and Moebius-strip cutouts, as well as to body-con trousers and cycling shorts. They’re counterposed by the more evening-appropriate feel of fitted vest dresses decorated with hanging drapes and oversized ruches, and seemingly shredded bands that run around the wearer’s body. It all makes for a wardrobe that considers its wearer’s everyday comfort as much as fashion’s duty to elevate the everyday. MS

Pellat-Finet is back, baby!

Since the 90s, Pellat-Finet has revolutionised knitwear with an anti-fashion stance. Its boldly-hued designs – drawn up in Paris and brought to life by London tailors using Italian yarns – reject tags and brand labels. Instead, the brand’s only calling card on the actual garments is their craftsmanship. Now, after being bought by Zadig and Voltaire founder Thierry Gillier in 2019, Pellat-Finet is back with a new collection of knitwear with the same level of immaculate supple, luxurious fibres (perfect for this time of year, we might add) though this time with eminently contemporary silhouettes, raw-edged hems, contrasting linings, hoodies with kangaroo pockets and giant skulls seamlessly threaded into the back. Pellat-Finet’s comeback collection is now available to buy at pellatfinet.com. Staying warm never felt so good, literally. TG

Palace x Kappa bring fashion to football

Fashion and football are two words you don’t often hear in the same sentence but a new collaboration from two of streetwear's most prolific names are gunning to change that. Kappa invited Palace into their archive based in Turin, Italy, which houses many a gem from football history. From home and away jerseys worn by iconic players, to sportswear brought to life by iconic British pop stars; Palace searched through the 30-year time capsule and created a collection that encompasses timeless Italian style with 90s British football culture. Though the collaboration began with everyone involved staying loyal to their football teams, the colourways evolved and blurred together into something more united. The result is a collection of crinkle effect nylon jackets with sporty stripes, raglan sleeved tees and a banda tracksuit, its polytricot reimagined to fit both Palace and Kappa’s styles. The full collection is available from today to buy from Palace stores in London, LA, NYC and Tokyo, Dover Street Market London and LA and online at palaceskateboards.com. Catch us at a football match in head-to- toe Palace x Kappa, hotdog in hand, shouting “go sports!” TG

Meet the designer making the Xmas party dresses of your dreams

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Hi Emma! Tell us a bit about yourself. What drew you to fashion?

From when I was a child, I was always drawing or making something. I used to say that my dream job was to be an artist. When I got a little older my attention was drawn to sewing. It started with making clothes and accessories for my dolls and later developed into sewing my own clothing or altering stuff I already had in my wardrobe. I think this is when I first started contemplating the idea of going to fashion school, but it still took me until I was 25 years old until I finally dared to go for my dream and apply.

Fashion in general has always been an interest of mine, but my true passion was discovered when I was introduced to the knitting machines at The Swedish School of Textiles. I love the hands-on process where you can create the most amazing things with just a thread. It is a very satisfying feeling finishing a piece and knowing all the meticulous work that was put into it.

How would you introduce this capsule? What was its starting point?

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With this capsule, I wanted to find the balance between the art and the clothing. My graduate collection was very sculptural and experimental, and I wanted to translate that into wearable pieces but still keep the visual effect that is my signature.

The attention to detail on show in your work is really impressive. On average, how long does a piece take to make?

Thank you! The time the pieces take to make varies a lot depending on how much detail work is put into it. A small top with beading can take up to 20 hours just to knit. But most of the pieces I make take roughly eight hours from start to finish.

What would you say are your main aesthetic influences?

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I have always been drawn to symmetry. To me, it equals perfection, which is something I always strive for in my work. In fashion, Iris Van Herpen is a huge inspiration. I’m always in awe of the spectacular pieces she creates. Colour is also a very important element. It can be used as a complement to enhance the structure in the fabric in many ways which I never get bored of experimenting with.

Who do you have in mind when you design?

I would say my designs are for people who want to feel feminine and sexy. Some pieces are more showpieces that would look great on stage, but I also have dresses for those who just want to look hot on a night out.

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