Dermatologists say it's the secret to ultra-bright skin.
Meet the Expert
- Michael Lin, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Lin Skincare. He currently has his own practice in Los Angeles, CA.
- Claire Chang, MD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City.
- Ginger King is a cosmetic chemist and president of Grace Kingdom Beauty, which specializes in cosmetic brand concept development and beauty business consulting.
Allow us to introduce you to arbutin, the secret skin brightener youâ€™ve maybe never even heard of. Vitamin C, kojic acid, and licorice are all great natural skin brighteners, but there are a couple of reasons why arbutin kicks them to the curb. We spoke with experts and asked them to give us the 411 on arbutin.
Type of Ingredient: Brightener
Main Benefits: Lightens dark spots, lessens the appearance of acne scars, helps even out skin tone.
Who Should Use It: Arbutin is generally safe for all skin types.
How often can you use it: Arbutin can be used twice a day. It is safe to apply on clean skin with other creams and serums. It can also be used in the summer since it does not make skin more sensitive to the sun.
Works well with: Vitamin C, AHAs
Donâ€™t use with: While there are no known negative interactions with other skincare ingredients, heat can degrade the effectiveness of arbutin.
What is Arbutin?
â€œArbutin is a molecule extracted from the bearberry plant that prevents the formation of melanin,â€ Lin explains. He compares arbutin to two other gentle brighteners: kojic acid (derived from mushrooms) and licorice root (derived from the licorice plant). â€œ[They] are derived from different natural ingredients, but they all function as tyrosinase inhibitors to provide skin lightening and brightening effects,â€ he says.
Brown spots come from pigments that are produced in cells called melanocytes, which contain enzymes called tyrosinase. They can activate anytime they come in contact with UV light, which is why youâ€™ll notice freckles and sun spots starting to develop if you spend too much time in the sun. Thatâ€™s when arbutin comes inâ€”it blocks tyrosinase and keeps dark spots at bay.
It's important, however, to learn how to distinguish between alpha-arbutin (the good stuff) and other, similar-sounding ingredients, notes King. "There's beta-arbutin, which is a cheap version and not stable, thus it is important to distinguish the forms of arbutin," she notes. Alpha-arbutin is the most stable and effective form of the ingredient.
Arbutin is typically found in a variety of skincare products, including serums, moisturizers, toners, and masks.
Side Effects of Arbutin
Before you go and buy every arbutin skin product out there, you should know this: There have been some people who get nervous about arbutin, because of the similar brightening benefits it has with hydroquinone. However, arbutin is widely considered a safe and effective ingredient for skin lightening.
â€œArbutin is available in some skincare products designed to improve pigmentation,â€ Lin says. â€œUse of these products regularly in your routine will improve your complexion.â€ One thing he notes is that arbutin can be a great way to lighten acne scarsâ€”he recommends using acne treatments with natural ingredients and arbutin, like his eponymous lineâ€™s 2-Step Acne Clarifying System ($46), to lighten dark spots that can linger after acne fades.
How to Use It
"Because arbutin tends to be gentle, it can be used in combination with other skin lightening ingredients, like chemical peels and retinols," says Chang. She recommends using arbutin twice daily after cleansing, but before any heavy moisturizers.
"You will be surprised to find arbutin is in many of your existing skincare products, especially skin brightening products," Chang continues. While arbutin is mainly in skincare serums, it's also a superstar ingredient in overnight masks and water creams.
King says it's best to mix arbutin with other ingredients that offer similar brightening effects, such as vitamin C and AHA, but exercise caution when trying any new product. "When at a high pH, [arbutin] will release hydroquinone, but fortunately, most of the personal care products have a neutral pH," cautions King. In other words, "arbutin is generally safe but some people can have sensitivity to it," she adds.
The Best Products With Arbutin
"I recommend iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+ to give a boost of antioxidants and anti-aging activity," Chang says. "iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+ contains key ingredients including arbutin, vitamin C, copper tripeptide growth factors, and Centella Asiatica to brighten the skin, improve skin tone, and reduce fine lines."
This overnight mask with arbutin works to fade dark spots overnight. It also uses skin-restoring ingredients like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to help keep skin soft and moisturized.
Not only does this serum with arbutin work to even out overall skin tone, but it also helps smooth skin. Kojic acid works to resurface the skin's texture, while vitamin C acts as a brightening booster. Since this serum is packed with both brightening and resurfacing ingredients, it's best saved last, for use as a spot treatment on any stubborn dark areas.
This treatment works to quickly fade the dark spots left behind after a breakout. It's safe for all skin types, and it even works to prevent acne. Kojic acid helps enhance the brightening effects.
This gentle toner works to brighten and fade any scars or dark spots you may have. Not only that but it's got green tea to help revitalize dull skin and rebalance your skin's natural pH balance.
Vitamin C and arbutin work in conjunction, to brighten dull skin and fade dark spots over time. Photo-aging, fine lines, and wrinkles are also targeted with continued use.
With hyaluronic acid for the ultimate moisture boost, this cream works to hydrate and brighten at the same time. Its light formulation makes it easy to apply as a base before makeup or a refreshing moisturizer before bed. Papaya extract works with hyaluronic acid and arbutin to gently resurface the skin, revealing a glowy, soft complexion after regular use.
Arbutin is typically safe and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. As always, spot test any new products to make sure you don't have an adverse reaction.
Arbutin can safely be used in both your morning and nighttime routine. It should be applied after cleansing but before your moisturizer.
Arbutin and hydroquinone are both ingredients that can help brighten the skin. However, hydroquinone kills cells that make melanin and pigmentation, while arbutin stops the enzymes that make cells that produce pigmentation.
Jegasothy SM, Zabolotniaia V, Bielfeldt S. Efficacy of a new topical nano- hyaluronic acid in humans. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014;7(3): 27-29.
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